Electrical questions answered
Frequently asked questions
Can my current panel handle a Level 2 EV charger?
Often, yes. We run an NEC Article 220 load calculation on your existing service first. Many 100-amp and 150-amp homes can take a 40-amp or 48-amp charger, sometimes with a UL-listed load-management module, so a full service upgrade is not always needed.
How can I tell if my panel is outdated or unsafe?
Warning signs include a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or Zinsco label, screw-in fuses, breakers that feel warm, a burning smell, rust inside the box or lights that dim when a large appliance starts. Many insurers now refuse to cover these panels, and we can check yours during a $129 diagnostic visit.
Do you charge by the hour?
No. Repairs begin with a $129 diagnostic, credited to the repair if you go ahead, followed by a written flat price. Estimates for planned upgrades such as panels, EV circuits and lighting are free, and the price you sign is the price you pay.
Do you handle permits and the utility?
Yes. We file the city permit, book the utility disconnect and reconnect, and meet the inspector on site. Unpermitted work can void a home insurance claim and stall a sale, so we never skip it.
Why not plug an EV charger into a $12 hardware-store outlet?
A Level 2 charger draws between 32 and 40 amps continuously for hours at a time. Cheap residential-grade outlets are not built for that load and can overheat, melt or start a fire, so we fit a hardwired charger or an industrial-grade NEMA 14-50 receptacle on its own correctly sized circuit.
Can recessed lights go in without cutting up the ceiling?
Usually. We lay out the positions with a laser, then fish the cable through the joist cavities with flexible drill bits and glow rods. Most rooms are finished without extra holes, and if solid blocking forces an access cut we agree it with you first.
Why does my AFCI breaker trip when the vacuum runs?
AFCI breakers watch for the arcing signature of damaged wiring, and some older vacuum and appliance motors produce a similar pattern. Often the real cause is a loose connection or a shared neutral on that circuit, which we can trace and correct during a diagnostic visit.
How long is the power off for a 200-amp upgrade?
Most upgrades take seven to nine hours on site, but the power is usually off for only four to six of them while we swap the panel and the utility reconnects. We plan the cut-over with you in advance so the fridge and any medical equipment are looked after.