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Cuts, fades and shop craft

The tools and habits behind every cut at Brass Chair Barbers: chairs set to the right height, clippers and shears laid out clean, and the straight razor that finishes each visit.

  • A green leather barber chair with a chrome footrest on a wooden floor, beside a white wall-mounted basin.
    01 A restored leather barber chair with its headrest and chrome footrest, set beside the basin. The chair is pumped to the height that brings the client's head level with the barber's hands, which matters more to an even cut than anything else.
  • A barber's hand running an electric clipper up the back of a client's head, close to the skin.
    02 A clipper taken up the back of the head without a guard, the base of a low fade. Cutting against the growth lifts each hair into the blade, and the blend above it is worked in short flicks until no line shows.
  • A barber draws a wooden comb back through a client's slicked dark hair, seen from the side with the face turned away.
    03 A comb drawn back through slicked hair. It sets the direction the hair will fall before any length comes off, so a style worn back is cut with the hair combed back rather than flat to the head.
  • Antique hand-operated hair clippers and spare toothed blades laid out on a pale cloth.
    04 Hand clippers and spare blades from before electric tools. Two toothed plates sliding across each other is still how a modern clipper cuts, and why every blade at the shop is kept sharp and disinfected.
  • A straight razor drawn across a lathered cheek while the fingers of the other hand stretch the skin.
    05 A straight razor on lather, the free hand stretching the skin flat. A taut surface lets the blade take the hair without catching, and every shave at the shop starts with a fresh single-use blade.
  • A row of red leather barber chairs facing white basins along a narrow shop with a wooden floor.
    06 A row of leather chairs facing their basins. Each station keeps its own clippers, combs and towels, and nothing used at one chair reaches the next client until it has been cleaned and disinfected.
  • Several pairs of professional haircutting scissors and thinning shears hanging from a magnetic strip.
    07 Cutting scissors and thinning shears on a magnetic strip. Straight blades take length and set lines; the toothed thinning blade removes bulk without shortening, which is how a thick crown is made to sit flat.
  • A close view of an antique metal hand clipper with a toothed cutting head, on a white surface.
    08 The cutting head of an early hand clipper. Its teeth cut at one fixed depth, and every guard on a modern clipper changes that depth by a set amount, which is what your barber notes down as your guard numbers.

Before, at the chair, finished

Every haircut at Brass Chair Barbers passes through the same three stages, from reading the hair to the last look in the hand mirror.

  1. Before
    A comb drawn back through a client's dark hair to read how it falls before any length is taken.

    The hair is read first. It is combed out in the direction it will be worn, the length is agreed in words, and the fade line is shown with the comb before a guard goes on.

  2. At the chair
    A clipper taken up the back of a client's head, close to the skin, at the base of the cut.

    The base is taken down, the guards are worked upward and the blend is refined with scissors over comb. The client is turned to the mirror whenever the shape changes.

  3. Finished
    A straight razor finishing a clean line through lather on a client's cheek.

    The neckline and edges are finished with a razor, the hair is styled, and the hand mirror goes round the back so anything uneven is corrected while the client is still in the chair.

Reserve a chair

Name the service, the barber if you have one in mind, and a day that suits. The reply comes back with the chair times still open.

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